The 2025 Osaka World Expo in Japan is set to take place on April 13, 2025, in Osaka. As the date approaches, global attention is turning toward this grand event. Recently, news of a partial collapse of the Expo’s iconic structure made headlines. On March 4, the structure’s roof had just been recognized by Guinness World Records as the world’s largest wooden architectural structure. Although this incident will not affect the Expo’s normal proceedings, it highlights the challenges of hosting a grand world exhibition even today. Yet, 110 years ago, when science and technology were far less advanced, a world expo in Panama drew over 18 million visitors. At that time, the Chinese delegation traveled across vast oceans, overcoming numerous difficulties to present over 100,000 exhibits, showcasing China to the world for the first time. This was the 1915 Panama–Pacific International Exposition (hereinafter referred to as the “Panama Expo”). Over the past century, various stories about the Panama Expo have been widely circulated in China, and debates surrounding it have never ceased. At last, the documentary “A Century of Global Spirits” sets the record straight, dispelling myths and clarifying historical truths.
Many people have heard a story about the Chinese delegation at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition (Panama Expo). It is said that when Chinese baijiu (white liquor) was exhibited, its simple packaging was not as refined as that of foreign liquors, resulting in little interest from visitors. According to the tale, someone in the Chinese delegation—whether out of quick thinking, frustration, or even by accident—smashed a bottle of baijiu on the ground. The rich aroma instantly filled the air, attracting visitors, and from that moment on, Chinese baijiu gained international recognition.
Video: https://youtu.be/rfpUFXdrH-c
This widely circulated yet unverified story reflects the phenomenon of many baijiu companies trying to associate themselves with a prestigious name, as the Panama Expo held great significance for China. It can be said that this was the first time Chinese products appeared on the global stage, using this opportunity to step onto the world market. So, is this story really true?
I. Commercial Thinking in Packaging
The 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition (Panama Expo) was a grand celebration held to commemorate the opening of the Panama Canal. The event lasted nine and a half months, attracting over 18 million visitors, setting records as the longest-running and most-attended world expo in history.
After the establishment of the Republic of China, the country participated in such an international exposition for the first time as a nation. This was a significant opportunity for China’s industrial sector to showcase its new image, promote industrial development, and expand exports. On May 24, 1913, Yuan Shikai, President of the Republic of China, officially approved a report from the Ministry of Commerce, appointing Chen Qi as the Supervisor of China’s Participation in the Expo and Director of the Panama Expo Affairs Bureau.
At the University of California, Berkeley’s archives, many materials related to China’s participation in the Panama Exposition are still preserved today. Among these is a catalog of Chinese products that were showcased at the event. The catalog records that there were more than 100,000 exhibits from 4,172 producers or units across China.
How did Chen Qi manage to gather these more than 100,000 exhibits in a short time and transport them across the ocean? According to Chen Qi’s nephew, Chen Yuguang, “He first organized a committee in each province to survey famous handicrafts and agricultural products produced in that province, then shipped the items to a designated port in Shanghai…” At the beginning of the Republic of China, many areas still lacked railways and roads. The transportation of such a large quantity of small, scattered goods to the port was truly a testament to the ingenuity of the time. Take the packaging of liquor as an example. Contrary to the earlier mentioned story, the packaging of Chinese baijiu exhibited at the event was not only not simple, but actually showed advancements in packaging.
“How could they pack more liquor? They modified the cylindrical bottles into column-shaped bottles. The column-shaped bottle could hold more liquor and prevent breakage,” explained Wang Wenqing, an expert in the history of liquor.
“Once packed and shipped to Beijing, Mr. Chen had to comply with the American regulations on packaging,” said Yu Shunbiao, Vice Chairman of the Panama-Pacific International Exposition’s organizing committee and Chairman of the Chinese Committee. The organizing body of the Panama Expo was called the Panama-Pacific International Exposition Association, which had strict rules regarding the size and packaging of exhibits. “They had specific requirements for packaging, from the dimensions to the overall presentation, and it had to be done according to American standards.”
In 1915, the adjustments made by Chen Qi and others to the packaging of these exhibits represented a commercial revolution. Not only did it improve the appearance of Chinese goods, but it also introduced advanced commercial thinking from international trade to China, helping to revolutionize the mindset of traditional merchants scattered across the country.
II. The Mystery of the Panama Grand Prize
The Panama Grand Prize mystery has sparked just as much debate as the story mentioned above. Do you know what the highest award at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition was? Many people immediately say “gold medal,” but that is the wrong answer. Moreover, there are numerous contradictory records of the awards that can be found on the internet today. Which liquor won the highest award at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition?
“The Record of China’s Participation in the Panama-Pacific Exposition”
In February 1917, the Panama-Pacific Exposition Preparation Bureau published “The Record of China’s Participation in the Panama-Pacific Exposition” (hereinafter referred to as “The Record”). The author of “The Record” was Chen Qi. After the exposition ended, “The Record” served as Chen Qi’s work report, thoroughly documenting the reasons for participation, the entire process of the exposition, and a post-event summary. Not only is it categorized and detailed to the utmost, but it also meticulously records every small detail with great rigor. In “The Record,” the awards are classified according to the traditional Heavenly Stems system, with six categories of medals: (A) Grand Prize Medal, (B) Honorary Medal, (D) Gold Medal, (E) Silver Medal, (F) Bronze Medal, and (C) Certificate of Honor (no medal).
According to “The Record,” only the following four items in the agricultural pavilion’s liquor category received the (A) Grand Prize Medal:
Hebei Province (1 item): (Selected by the government office) — Beans, peanuts, sorghum liquor, wool, pig bristles;
Henan Province (1 item): (Selected by the government office) — Beans, sorghum liquor, pickled vegetables, mushrooms
Shanxi Province (1 item): (Selected by the government office) — Sorghum Fenjiu
Shandong Province (1 item): Shandong Zhangyu Winery — Various kinds of liquor
Chinese Section of the Food Pavilion, Mineral Pavilion, Transportation Pavilion, and Agricultural Pavilion at the Panama-Pacific Exposition
Since “The Record” provides clear documentation, why did it still spark so much debate? Perhaps it’s because the liquor selected by each province in “The Record” did not specify which distillery it came from, leaving much room for later generations to imagine. “A Century of Global Spirits” records the whereabouts of one liquor grand prize medal: the Panama-Pacific Exposition grand prize medal currently housed in the Shanxi Fenjiu Museum. It is the very medal awarded to the sorghum Fenjiu sent by the government office of Shanxi Province.
Grand Prize Medal Preserved in the Fenjiu Museum
III. Calling for Barrier-Crossers
As stated at the end of the “A Century of Global Spirits” : “The medal itself is not that important. What matters are people like Chen Qi, who did not just bring one product, but brought all of China into a modern international trade market. They truly crossed barriers, unlike some people today who create barriers. So they truly deserve to be proud for their open-hearted spirit and progressive mindset.”
The Grand Prize Medal preserved in the Fenjiu Museum not only witnesses Chen Qi’s great achievement but also includes another predecessor, like Chen Qi, who had an open heart and a progressive mindset: Yang Deliang, the head of the Yiquanyong Liquor Shop in Fenyang, Shanxi.
In 1910, the Fenjiu from the Yiquanyong Liquor Shop won the gold medal at the Nanyang Promotion Conference. The organizer of the Nanyang Promotion Conference was, in fact, Chen Qi. It was this award that laid the foundation for Fenjiu to participate in the Panama International Exposition, though the road to the exposition was not without challenges.
In early 1914, Chen Qi approached Yiquanyong, hoping to bring their Fenjiu to Panama for the exposition. The shareholders and the shopkeeper of Yiquanyong held closed-door discussions, uncertain whether this would be good or bad for Fenjiu. In the end, it was the head of the shop, Yang Deliang, who made a decisive decision and firmly supported Fenjiu’s participation in the exhibition.
“Initially, the government funded it, but later, when the government withdrew, Yiquanyong raised 4,000 yuan, and some local colleagues chipped in another 4,000 yuan.” Alcohol history expert Wang Wenqing explains that the 8,000 yuan required for Fenjiu’s participation in the exhibition was raised in this manner.
“A Century of Global Spirits” records many individuals and teams, like Chen Qi and Yang Deliang, who crossed barriers. They crossed vast oceans and overcame physical barriers such as rough roads, crude tools, and limited funds, allowing Chinese products to first stand on the world stage and introducing advanced business thinking to China.
While recording the individuals and teams who crossed barriers, A Century of Global Spirits also expresses a sincere call for contemporary barrier-crossers.
A century later, with the rapid development of science and technology, physical barriers have gradually been overcome by humanity. However, national commodity trade still faces invisible barriers such as cultural and economic obstacles. Taking liquor as an example, although Chinese liquor accounts for one-third of the global spirits production, it only occupies 0.76% of international trade, indicating both its immense international potential and cultural barriers.
Chen Qi with the Vice Chairman of the Panama Expo
The sea breeze carries the ship away, leaving no trace behind. Today, who will inherit the wisdom, courage, and pioneering spirit of pioneers like Chen Qi and Yang Deliang to cross the barriers of contemporary international trade? In the Baijiu industry, there is a team that undoubtedly deserves this honor: the Shanxi Xinghuacun Fenjiu Group Co., Ltd., which originated from the Yiquan Yong Liquor House. As a leading enterprise in China’s Baijiu export, the “Fenjiu people” have truly inherited Yang Deliang’s legacy and made new contributions to the global expansion of Chinese Baijiu. According to incomplete statistics, in 2024 alone, Fenjiu organized or deeply participated in 47 international events, including the Fenjiu high-end tasting event held at the BAGEBI Restaurant in Moscow, and the “2024 Fenjiu New Product Launch Conference” held in Canada by Fenjiu International and LPWine International. As of now, its overseas market has widely covered more than 60 countries and regions across Asia, Europe, America, Oceania, and Africa. It has successfully developed over 100 overseas distributors, established more than 9,000 retail outlets, and over 180 foreign duty-free shops and Chinese departure duty-free stores.
The time is right for Chinese Baijiu to go global, and the “liquor culture deficit” urgently needs to be broken. The era is calling for those who, like Chen Qi, Yang Deliang, and the “Fenjiu people,” will lead the way in crossing the barriers: “The wind will break the waves one day, and the ship will sail straight to the vast ocean!”
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